Photos Coming Soon
|Click here to view bitmap of Lokar Handbrake configuration.|
|Our parking brake was one of those things we kept putting off. It wasn't nearly as fun as installing the steering wheel or dash board, but it is one of those mechanical systems that is needed to get our project titled and registered with the State of Idaho. We put it off as long as we could, but we are getting very close to a start-up and test drive, so we had to gitt'er done! Dad realized that we better have a parking brake so we can safely start the engine too. There is no real chance of a problem with the truck moving because transmission shifter is installed and operational, but we really want the truck to stay in one place when we do our start-up testing, which is in the very near future.
We kicked around exactly how to hook up an emergency brake. The donor truck's old pedal system was out of the question. No realistic way to make it work. Finally, we settled on a Lokar, chrome plated, universally mounted hand brake. It has a ratchet styled pull, with a thumb button release and a black vinyl boot.
We chose a two-dimensional mount. It is positioned just to the rear of our B&M Hammer shifter on a 45-degree, rising angle, next to the driver's right thigh. The front of the handle base is mounted on the vertical back-side of the front engine tunnel. The rear handle base is mounted on the horizontal drive train tunnel.
We used a brand new stock Suburban parking brake cable from LMC Truck and made a stock undercarriage connection. Then we threaded it through four home-made cable hangers along the interior and exterior of the left frame rail. We knew it would be too long so we planned for it to go forward and curve back, then up vertically where it connected to the hand brake.
The cable hangers were made from the old front and rear frame horns, cut-down, shaped and bolted to the frame. The rear-most hanger, and the forward most hanger required exact hole sizes for the brake cable armored clips to snap into. These keep the armored cable jacket in place, and actually provide the mechanical thrust points for cable action. The two middle hangers had no critical dimensions.
The rear mechanical brake lines were in good condition, but the stock turnbuckle, where the new brake cable attached, had a rusty adjustment fastener. We tried to loosen it with WD-40 and a wire brush, in order to take out slack in the cable, but we still ended up with a seized fastener. We had to cut it off and use a new fastner.
Overall, the installation was very straight forward; however, it took several attempts to adjust the undercarriage linkage in order to get the brakes to engage when pulling the handle.
Now we can get the big 37" Super Swampers to chirp when we push the truck out of the garage and "slam" on the parking brake. We guess this part of the build has been successful.
In the lower picture just to the right you can see the dog house has been removed so the truck will be easier to mask and paint.