STEP SEVEN:  Install Rear Quarter Panels

The rear quater panels are not shown on this page, but they required significant trimming prior to installation.  The edge of the bed was manufactured so that the fiberglass panels would easily mount with fasteners.  Carriage bolts would work, but we chose stainless steel, self-starting screws.  The forward end of the panel required substantial trimming to fit into the slot made-up of the rear end of the rocker panel and the aft edge of the rear passenger door.  On our final installation, after painting, we will add additional fasteners, and we will also use adhesive to seal out moisture between the fiberglass and steel.

STEP EIGHT:  Fill All Interior and Exterior Body Seams with Sandable Caulk

We decided that we wanted to add sandable caulk to our body's construction to lengthen the life of the truck, and to keep out all sources of external moisture.  We used a 3M Product called "Fast 'n Firm".  It is a great product, but required a lot of time.  We easily spent 30-hours caulking all seams.  Every now and then we find a spot we missed, so we're glad we purchased 12 tubes.  Before our project is over, all 12 tubes will be used up.    We did the caulking top to bottom on the interior, and then worked top to bottom on the exterior.  In addition to the body caulk underneath the body, we will add spray-on bedliner to all the lower seams as well.

STEP NINE:  Mount Exterior Body Lights

We used stainless steel, self-tapping screws to mount all exteiror lights and reflectors.  We chose all mounting locations by looking at various other projects on the Urban Gorilla web site, and did our best to replicate the most prevalent lighting schemes.  Everyone should note that mounting lights on fiberglass requires adding a ground lead to the frame or body in order to have a complete electrical circuit.

STEP TEN:  Installing Power Window Regulators

We cut away a fairly large portion of the interior fiberglass on the doors to gain access to the door interior.  The regulators required mounting as low as possible in the door.  The top of the regulator drive wire column required trimming to fit just below the window opening.  Only two hex-head sheet metal screws were required to mount the actual regulator.  Two more screws will be used to stabilize the upper part of the window regulator once we add glass (after we paint the truck).  We tested a plexi-glass insert as a faux window, and used our generator's starter battery to test operate each window regulator after it was installed.  The regulators will drive our windows very fast.  The regulator kits were purchased through Urban Gorilla.  The switches for the windows were wired later in the project.  The driver has controls for all windows, and each door has its own switch.